toecatch
Full Member
Fort Worth, Texas
Posts: 51
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Post by toecatch on Jan 9, 2004 21:18:00 GMT -5
I was wondering if someone else traps here in N. Texas. I have been trapping for three years or so, but you can only learn so much from books. I have yet to catch a canine in my traps. I would like to find someone that could show my some tricks in person to "speed up the learning curve"
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Post by TerryinOK on Jan 21, 2004 12:16:29 GMT -5
I am not in texas but am pretty close. I do some predation trapping. maybe I could help you out some. Any specifics?
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toecatch
Full Member
Fort Worth, Texas
Posts: 51
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Post by toecatch on Jan 21, 2004 13:17:03 GMT -5
I haven't had any luck with canines, as they always dig up my trap. The traps are boiled and waxed, but it must be something in the set preparation that I am not doing, or doing wrong. What I really would like, is to find someone reasonably close that wouldn't mind me "tagging along" on their trapline for a day or two and just pay attention to what they do. I have several canine trapping books, but you only learn so much from reading.
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Post by TerryinOK on Jan 21, 2004 14:57:49 GMT -5
What are you baiting with? Have you tried setting a scent free trap behind your baited trap? One other thing thing is how are you burying the set? This leg hold stuff is really a dying art and I am glad to have someone to swap with. If time permits maybe you could e-mail me with a step by step breakdown of your sets and we could compare. My grandfather started me on leg holds when I was just a kid.
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toecatch
Full Member
Fort Worth, Texas
Posts: 51
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Post by toecatch on Jan 21, 2004 21:01:59 GMT -5
This weekend for example, I set one scent post, using a pipe corner post. I dropped back 6 or 8 in. from the post, dug my trap about 2 in. off center, buried about 3/8 in. on jaws, 1/4 in. over pan. Gave a sqiurt of red fox pee on the post. After two days, I noticed that the edge of one jaw was slightly exposed. ( dug out ). I made two dirthole sets using some hoof bait (horse hoof trimmings soaked in water in the sun for a year) dug trap 6 in. back, 1 or 2 in. offset, with same covering. Both of these were dug completely out of the ground, flipped upside down w/o being fired! Before the season, I boiled these traps in lye to remove excessive rust, boiled in fresh water for 20-30 min., and dipped in parrifin wax. All traps are night latched, pan tension at 2-3 #. I wouldn't think that using regular canning wax would matter. I also washed hands thoroughly with scent free soap minutes before making the sets. Do I need to bury depper maybe? What part of OK. are you in?
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Post by TerryinOK on Jan 22, 2004 13:37:03 GMT -5
I am in Mangum, in the southwestern part of the state. Are you sure that these are canines digging up these traps? I dont bury but slightly under level. Try using a unscented tissue paper to cover the pan and sift just enough dry soil to cover paper. Drench the pan with scent, move back about 18 inches and make a dry set same way. canning wax doesnt matter in my experiences. Any coon sign around your sets after they are dug? Sounds like you are doing everthing right. Something fishy about two traps upside down not being thrown!
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RShaw
New Member
Posts: 2
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Post by RShaw on Jan 22, 2004 19:46:20 GMT -5
toecatch,
Make sure that the trap has been dug-up by coyotes. You might move your trap about 9 inches from your backing. You want your traps reasonablly clean. No lure or urine on the trap itself. Lure is applied to backing behind the trap.
Wax paper works good for a pan covering. In my opinion your traps are being dug-up because they are not bedded solid. This is important. When the coyote works your set, nothing can move under his foot. Sounds to me like your trap is moving under foot and then the coyote digs.
Pack the dirt around the jaws . You can even let the loose jaw rest on your rebar stake if that is what you are using. Finished trap bed should be even or slightly lower than the surrounding ground. Don't use many guides on the trap bed. A single turd placed to side of the trap helps guide foot closer to pan.
You may have a little trouble now that the coyote has done some digging. Try switching lures . Just do something different at your new sets in that area.
If you still have problems with traps being dug, we can discuss that later.
Randy
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toecatch
Full Member
Fort Worth, Texas
Posts: 51
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Post by toecatch on Jan 22, 2004 21:07:57 GMT -5
I am reasonably sure that three of the traps were not dug up by coon, no coon tracks. Would just a scent post with fox pee bring a coon in? I made some other sets using bobcat gland lure that were dug up the same way. Made two cubby sets at ponds set with sardines for coon that were dug up the same way, except there were coon tracks all in these sets, but not in the others.
Me and a buddy are going up by Childress on the Red River to coyote hunt this weekend, and will probably make some sets this weekend. I have tried the wax paper pan covers in the past, but quit when I got some trapper's caps. All the sets last week were with no pan covers. I got permission to trap some land close to home today, so I'll get to run a trapline for more than two days ;D Keep the ideas coming!
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Duane
Full Member
Wisconsin
Posts: 28
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Post by Duane on Feb 14, 2004 19:31:18 GMT -5
This may be alittle late,but I'm new to the board,but I think Randy is right.It sounds like a bedding problem.My trap beds are bowl shaped and I pack it hard with my fist and then drive the stake down in the center of the bed run the stake through end chain swivel first,and then drive it all the way down sunk in the dirt then sift dirt into bed,pack lightly,then put set trap in bed and check to make sure you have ground contact all around trap with no tipping, if it tip throw some dirt there and pack,I use wax paper for pan covers,but I crumple it up into a little ball first and then un crumple it,makes it easier to work with plus eliminates the noise.Put tne wax paper over pan and inside jaws and sift dirt over and pack,checking all during the bedding process for tipping, when all is solid sift dirt over trap and level with aslight depression over pan.It's alittle to explain in writing but I hope it gives you an idea of what to do.The bowl shaped bed makes it easier to make sure the trap makes contact w/ground all around trap so it doesnt tip or rock when a coyote steps on the jaw first .Also your pan tension is right on for coyotes,I use 2.5#myself,but the important thing with that heavy tension is pan travel,if it's to much it'll get dug,it has to fire crisp and clean with very little travel,I carry asmall file on the line to take care of ones that start acting up on me.The video predator trapping problems and solutions by Slim Pederson is an excellent video for learning and pro's alike.I hope this helps.The only thing more paranoid than a coyote,is the guy trying to trap one,if you do it enough you'll know what I mean after you catch a bunch you'll wounder what was so hard.Good luck!
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Post by NechesBobcat on Feb 17, 2004 16:32:52 GMT -5
Hey ToeCatch, I am in Waxahachie. I have had a little experience trapping everything and if you are still trapping I would like to get with you and maybe we can go try to catch or call some one weekend.
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